Sewing, pattern drafting and making, printable patterns, DIY tutorials and more!

Basics

The spring came abnormally early this year for us. I guess it was expected after such a shitty winter we had - almost no snow, too warm and etc.
Days are already longer! There's actual daylight outside when I get back from work!!!

Anyways, as you know I had some trouble with my eyes. I am happy to report that I finally got my new specs and things are looking so much better! For reals! Ok, to sewing!

What: two T-shirts
Pattern used: have no idea, but I think it's from an older Burda magazine
Fabric used: all three fabrics are 98% cotton, 2% elastane


If you've read the blog(as little as I do write) you most likely know that I am terrified of prints. But I am trying to "self medicate" with buying more printed fabrics AND sewing them into actual garments I then force myself to wear. (I am a terrible person).


5/8 of a problem

As an European, I use Metric system. 1m = 100cm, 1cm = 10mm, 1,5cm = 1cm and 5mm and so on. Everything divides nicely, don't you think? It’s the metric power of ten!
Now in Imperial system how ever 1 inch divides simply into fractions: binary, quarter, eighth, and so on.

It is almost impossible to convert inches into centimeters precisely. The most common seam allowance on commercial patterns for home sewers produced in the U.S is ⅝ inches. When converted into millimeters, it’s 15,8750. In centimeters it’s 1,5875cm. And rounded to even it’s 1,6cm, not 1,5cm! but 1,6cm. By rounding it to even I’ve added 1,25 mm to the seam allowance. See what I mean?
My finished garment will be 5mm (thats slightly more than 3/16 of an inch) smaller in width. Or when not to be so anal and precise about decimal places, I could simply use a 1,5cm seam allowance and end up with a bigger finished garment.

I also think using a 1,5cm seam allowance almost everywhere is a waste, because you almost always trim the seam allowances down when the seam is sewn. Maybe it’s the years spent working in RTW industry speaking, where 1cm is like the “holy grail” of seam allowances, but there are seams where you just don't need that much allowance.
I usually spend hours grading the ⅝ inch seam allowance on patterns to 1cm on all the waistbands, collars, neck seams etc. Basically all of the somewhat horizontal seam allowances get trimmed to 1cm.
I have never ever tried to set in a sleeve or attach a collar (not to mention assembling the collar) with a 1,5cm seam allowance. 

How do you sew a curve precisely with the ⅝ inch seam allowance people???!!!

However, I have learned to almost love ⅝ inch seam allowance on side seams, center back or front seams, any vertical seams. There is something great in knowing that even though I do not muslin most of the garments; I will still have room to let out seams, if the clothing item will somehow end up being wee bit too small for me.

Now most of you lovely internet people do a muslin before cutting into your fashion fabric. You fit it properly, mark all the changes to the paper pattern etc.

I challenge you to try and set in a sleeve on a jacket with a 1cm seam allowance, or attach a collar!
Sew something with a 1cm seam allowance if you already havent!
Image from http://www.aonghascrowe.com

The Roaring Silence



The reason why it's been quiet for so long is my eyes. 

My eyesight took a turn for worse somewhere in January. And as it turns out, the sight isn't my only problem. Not only are my current glasses too strong for reading/sewing and too weak for me to see afar, there are someshit growing somewhere. 
Since I have no idea what are the correct words, my description maybe wrong...the eye is surrounded by that lovely pink mucosa. Turns out I have something growing on there that irritates the eye. BOOYA! How that something started growing there? SOMETHING IRRITATED THE EYE! Ouh the irony! 

So, by doctors orders - one hour of screen time per day for a whole month! Using my eyes for any kind of accurate work (read sewing) only when I've rested them for two hours after my nine hour work day. Not to mention new spectacles, which I've ordered, but for some odd reason they will be ready in March. Ouh and a course of treatment with overly expencive eyedrops for a month. I am to see the lovely doctor in two months.

So, not much sewing will be happening! I will however try and get over the funk, and start posting some finished projects. I promice!

We also apologize for any typos. It's the eyes! LOL!
Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...